The total investment required in establishing a rabbit farm business would range from $7000 to $9000. This would be enough to pay for all the needs of the rabbit farming venture. This would include the cages, food items, vitamins, tools and other materials needed. The handlers would initially start with less than 100 rabbits. Although the initial phase of the business would provide the investors with less income and profit, the long-term opportunities are very significant.

The rabbit stocks which should be used would include the giant and medium-sized breeds. The giant and medium-sized rabbits would allow the handlers to extract quality raw materials which can be used for different products. The medium-size rabbits are used primarily for their fur. The fur extracted from the rabbits can be sold at a very high price. Each box of fur can fetch up to $300 or more. This is because major clothing companies utilize fur when creating garments, jackets, shirts and coats. The giant rabbits are ideal for businesses that intend to sell meat products. The giant rabbits can provide 10 to 15 pounds of meat. The meat can send for $15 per pound. This would be very substantial since only 60 to 80 dollars are used to maintain and develop the rabbits.

In order to improve the quality of the meat and fur which can be extracted from the rabbits, the breeding stock should be provided with a suitable living area and adequate food items. The living area provided should be clear of any organisms and parasites which could cause diseases. This is because rabbits which have been affected by severe disorders are not allowed to be sold in the market. The rabbit farming business would lose a lot of money if a great number of rabbits have been infected. The proper food items should also be provided. This would include high protein and low fat feeds. This would ensure that the meat would be dense and fat free. People would pay lots of money for quality rabbit meat.

The proper mating and proliferation of offspring should be achieved. This is because the reproductive system of the doe would be compromised if it is impregnated continuously without rest. This should not be done since the doe would only live for 3 to 4 years. The amount of offspring which can be produced would be greatly lessened if the doe would die ahead of time. If mating is limited 6 to 8 times a year, the doe would be able to produce 120 offspring. This would be enough to increase the number of raw materials which can be derived from the rabbits.

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Government agencies and institutions that are involved with evaluating rabbit products sold commercially do not allow the use of toxic chemicals and substances to kill the animal. This is because consumers would have direct access to the commercial products manufactured using rabbit based materials. The toxic substances could cause harm and lead to healthcare complications. Chemical substances can also ruin the quality of the meat and fur. This is because the proteins found in the materials could be denatured. This would compromise the durability and quality of the items.

The handler can kill the rabbit humanely by detaching and displacing the connection of the neck to the brain. The vertebral column of the rabbit can be hit to cut the spinal cord which is very important in all the bodily functions of the rabbit. One single hit would be enough to kill the rabbit. Using a hammer or any other blunt tool is recommended in order to attain the results needed.

There are tools available which can be used to displace the vertebral column of the rabbit. This would include the neck brace which compresses the neck of the rabbit. The handler would only need to turn the knob located at the upper portion. This would allow the ring to push the neck of the rabbit forward. The rabbit would be dead in a matter of seconds.

Killing the rabbit humanely as part of your rabbit production strategy is very important in order to avoid unnecessary damage to the material goods which can be derived from the animal.

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There are certain types of rabbit meat which can be used for a specific product. The tenderness, consistency and flavor of the rabbit meat would have to be considered before using it. It can be mixed with certain ingredients and food items to improve taste. People would have to be creative and resourceful in order to enhance the quality of the rabbit meat.  

The rabbit meat can be used to create sausages. This is a very effective way to increase consumer interest towards rabbit meat considering sausages are among the most widely recognized food products in the market. Kids and adults eat sausages on a regular basis.

The New Zealand and Californian breeds can be used to make sausages due to the high protein content and dense consistency of the product produced. These types of rabbit meat would allow the sausage to retain its form despite being softened during the cooking process. Different ingredients can be included in the sausage such as onions, pepper, oregano and spices. By placing a set of ingredients, the rabbit meat sausage can appeal to different consumers.

The rabbit meat can also be cut in small pieces and coated with batter to be sold as fritters. This is ideal for people who want to enjoy rabbit meat at an instant. The fritter can be deep fried in hot oil. It would be ready within minutes. The Palomino breed should be used for this type of preparation. This is because the meat coming from the Palomino breed is already packed tightly. The person eating the fritters would be able to taste a lot of flavor in one small bite.

Special preparations can also be provided to consumers. rabbit meat marinated in special sauces can be packed individually. This would sell at a very high price if the recipe is very tasty and delicious. Many gourmet meat shops use the Beveren Rabbit due to its clean and pure taste. The sauces included would accentuate the Beveren rabbit meat.  

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Handling the rabbit should be done carefully since damage to the muscles and skin could be incurred if it is held at the wrong place. A lot of people make the mistake of pulling the rabbit by the ears. This is not recommended since the ligaments and tendons found in the neck and shoulder is displaced. This could cause tearing in the muscle which would lead to internal bleeding. The meat and skin of the rabbit would be discolored.  

The use of a large cage with individual segmentation is a more efficient way to manage the rabbits. This would avoid territorial issues between the rabbits which is the most common cause of conflict between the animals. Rabbits are very territorial and aggressive. If a buck is placed on a territory already claimed by the doe, a fight would occur. This could cause severe injury to the two rabbits. Placing divisions in the cage would allow the rabbits to be isolated from each other. Unnecessary mating can also be prevented.

The cages should also be equipped with a ventilation and waste disposal system. This would reduce the effort needed to maintain the rabbits. The ventilation system is equipped with a vacuum and an external channel. The vacuum would divert fresh air inside the cage. This is necessary especially if the rabbit is unable to go outside of the cage. The external channels would allow the peculiar odor coming from the rabbit to be released outside. The waste disposal system is used divert the excretions produced by the rabbit. Excretory wastes are full of bacteria, viruses and other contaminants which could cause severe infections. That is why the waste disposal system is equipped with a chemical dispenser that is used to exterminate the organisms which could cause diseases. All the wastes are collected in a sealed chamber outside of the cage.

An automated feeding system can be installed to allow faster and more efficient distribution of food items. The feeding system is equipped with a dispenser which can automatically release the proper amount of feeds at a specific time. The handlers would not be required to place food in each of the feeding plate. This is very efficient especially in large rabbit farms where thousands of stocks are present.  

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The first thing that should be noted is the habit and inclination of the buck and doe. The doe is extremely territorial. If a buck or another doe is placed inside the cage of the female rabbit, it would react aggressively and negatively. There is a high chance that a fight would occur between the two rabbits. The best way to provoke mating is by placing the doe inside the territory of the buck. If the doe is placed in an unfamiliar territory, it would react differently. It would remain calm and silent. The buck would be free to initiate the mating process.

The proper time of the mating process is also important. Mating at an early age would negatively affect the lifespan of the rabbit. This is because the reproductive system would be strained. The proper mating age would differ based on the breed. Smaller rabbits grow more rapidly which is why they can mate at an early age. When the small rabbits reach 4 to 6 months, mating can begin. Larger breeds have a slower development. Mating can only be permitted once it reaches 10 months. The doe can get only get pregnant 4 to 6 times a year. The doe should not be subjected to sexual activity immediately after birth. There should be an allowance of one week before the doe is impregnated again.  

The gestation period would range from 30 to 32 days. During this time, the embryo would develop inside the womb of the doe. By the 33rd day, the offspring would be released. The number of offspring can reach up to 12. During the gestation period, the doe should be provided with the necessary nutrients and feeds. This is very important in order to ensure the litters or offspring would be healthy enough to survive after birth.

There are artificial means available to motivate the buck to mate with the doe. Pheromones developed in the laboratory can be applied on the female rabbit to attract the buck. This is very effective since the chemical can enhance the sexual urge of the male rabbit. This is used by handlers to enhance the proliferation of offspring in a short period of time.  

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• It’s an excellent idea to join the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) http://www.arba.net in order to get their book on Raising Rabbits, the membership roster, and the subscription to Domestic Rabbits Magazine. These will provide great material for raising rabbits. Membership will also allow your rabbits to get grand championships, thus increasing the rabbit’s and its offspring’s value.

• Check out National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. P.O. Box 3657. Fayetteville, AR 72702 and the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) web page to find a rabbit show near you. Go to it and investigate the breed you are interested in raising. You can get insights as to how a judge evaluates the rabbit breed you are interested in. You can also ask other rabbit fanciers to share their experiences with their rabbits. Finally, you can purchase your rabbits at the show.

• Only purchase rabbits from an established breeder who will stand behind the sale with a signed certificate of pedigree. Any other way invites problems such as genetic defects, disease, and bad specimens of the breed. You also must have a pedigree to show a rabbit or to sell pedigreed offspring.

• Select a breed that you want to become an expert in. You should love that breed. Concentrate on what judges are looking for in that breed. Strive to attain the perfect standard. When others know you have high quality rabbits, they will beat a path to your door.

• Your cages should give you easy access, be self cleaning, and provide good protection for your rabbits. They should not be too small.

• Feed rabbits the correct amount of rabbit pellets for their size and occasionally supplement their diet with alfalfa hay. Do not feed them too much – a fat rabbit loses stamina and doesn’t breed well.

• Do not put rabbits together after they are 3 months old until you are ready to breed them at 6 months.

• As a side note, when you get your book on raising rabbits from ARBA, memorize the section on diseases. When I say, memorize, I mean, MEMORIZE! Always be vigilant for those diseases in your rabbitry. Finally, protect your rabbits from other animals, especially from dogs and raccoons. They’ll do a number on your rabbits if given the chance.

Keep the following principles in mind when you want to breed your rabbits:

• Only mate rabbits of the same breed. Exceptions to this include breeding for meat, pets or genetic experimentation. You cannot sell a pedigree rabbit that has mixed blood in its background going back 4 generations.

• Do not keep more than one rabbit in each cage when the rabbit is 3 months or older. Rabbits mature faster when alone, do not fight, and do not breed, thus eliminating unexpected results.

• Before breeding, check the bottom of the cage of both the doe and buck for evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Do not breed the rabbit having this condition until it has been adequately treated. Also check the genitals of both rabbits for any signs of disease or infection (for example, extreme redness, discharge, sores or scabbiness). Refer to the
ARBA Official Guidebook section on diseases.

• When ready to breed the doe, take it to the buck’s cage. Never bring the buck to the doe’s cage. The reason for this is that the buck has fewer tendencies to breed in the doe’s cage. He’s too busy sniffing around the cage.

• Some leave the doe with the buck overnight. Others put the doe in, watch it, and when they have mated, remove the doe. If you do the latter, put the doe back in with the buck 1 to 12 hours after the initial breeding. This will increase the likelihood of pregnancy and may increase the number of offspring.

• Keep a calendar and accurate records of the day you breed the doe. You should test her for pregnancy between the 10th and 14th day after the initial breeding. There are two ways to do this. The overall preferred method is to palpate the lower abdomen of the doe with your thumb and forefinger checking for nodules about the size of a marble. The other method is not only more risky but also more inaccurate. This method is to mate the doe with the buck again. This can cause problems because the doe has two uterine horns, each of which can carry babies. It is possible for one horn to be fertilized on the first mating and the second to be fertilized on the second mating. This will create a hormonal imbalance and cause the babies in both uteri to not form right, causing her to pass blobs instead of babies at the date of kindling. There is also a chance these “mummified” blobs could cause complications leading to the death of the doe.

• You should place a nest box in her cage on the 29th day after breeding. Thirty-one days after breeding, she should kindle her litter.

• For meat rabbits and other breeding purposes, depending on the method of breeding the breeder chooses to adopt, the baby rabbits are weaned at between 4 – 7 weeks (See chapter 6 on Reproduction and mating). The number of rabbits per cage is determined by the weight, size and age of animals. (See chapter 4 on housing and caging).

• Finally, before starting off, make it a point of duty to visit a rabbit farm, join an organization like American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) http://www.arba.net in order to get their book on Raising Rabbits, the membership roster, and the subscription to Domestic Rabbits Magazine. These will provide great material for raising rabbits. Membership will also allow your rabbits to get grand championships, thus increasing the rabbit’s and its offspring’s value. With these tips, you are on your way to being a successful rabbit farmer.

Conclusion

The secret is to study and get to know as much as possible. Then put what you have learnt into practice. Every venture carries its peculiar associated risk. But if managed well, with great commitment and visionary planning, you can become a successful rabbit farmer.

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Rabbits visit the vet for routine checkups, vaccination and when ill or injured. Some veterinary surgeons have a special interest in rabbits and some have extra qualifications. It is advisable to look for vets who have qualifications in treating and taking care of rabbits in your area particularly if you plan on having rabbits on a large scale.

Routine checkups

Routine checkups usually involve assessment of weight, skin, health and teeth by the owner or a veterinarian. This is essential because a rabbit’s health and welfare can be compromised by being overweight or underweight or by having dental problems. Checking the teeth is particularly important part of the examination. Veterinarians can also give personalized advice on diet and exercise.

Vaccinations

Rabbits should be vaccinated against Myxomatosis and Viral Hemorrhagic Disease. These vaccinations are usually given annually, two weeks apart. If there is an outbreak of Myxomatosis locally this vaccine can be administered every six months for extra protection.

Worming

Some vets now recommend worming all rabbits against the parasite Encephalitozoon Cuniculi. Fenbendazole is used as a worm expellant agent in other species of animal and has shown to be effective in treating rabbits. It is particularly recommended for rabbits kept in colonies and before mixing new rabbits with each other.

Ill or Injured

Rabbits should be taken to the vets if ill or injured beyond the ability of the owner to treat. It is important to seek urgent veterinary attention if a rabbit has any of the following symptoms: dramatic or sudden loss of appetite, severe depression, breathing problems, sudden onset of head tilt, signs of infestation, not passing stools.

Rabbits also need urgent veterinary attention if they are exposed to poisons, involved in accidents, fall from a height or are exposed to smoke. Rabbits that are drooling, have unexplained weight loss, diarrhea or fur loss should also be taken to the vets. As in other farming practices, observe your rabbits and look out for abnormal behavior.

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For instance rabbits are quiet when ill unlike cats or dogs. They can make various vocal communications, but this is mainly seen in the most trusting, confident rabbits, usually house rabbits where they have a very close bond with the owner, who spends many hours with their rabbit.

There is also the most horrible high-pitched shriek you never want to hear of a petrified rabbit and you will recognize some growling noises of a scared or discontented rabbit. This all means that we have to be very vigilant and observant and know our rabbits very well to recognize if they are unwell. They are creatures of habit. Signs of illness are extremely subtle, but if noticed and the rabbit is taken to the vets promptly, they can be treated successfully.

The one vital piece of information for a rabbit owner is do not wait to see if they will be better tomorrow. The rabbit probably has been ill for a long time and is only just showing symptoms. Also the main thing, which kills rabbits, is not the infection/illness, which can normally be treated, but their digestive system shutting down. Even a few hours without normal grazing can cause life-threatening problems.

Rabbits are creatures of routine so be aware if your rabbit acts differently.

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There are basic terms involved understanding rabbits before breeding begins.  A female rabbit is called a doe. A male rabbit is called a buck. When you check to see if the doe is pregnant or breeding again before she is due to give birth, this is called testing. When you put a box in the hutch that is lined with hay and the doe pulls fur from her belly, this is called nesting. When the doe gives birth, this is called kindling. The period of time between breeding and kindling is called the gestation period. When the doe gives birth the young are called kits. When the kits are taken away from the mother, this is called weaning.

Other than understanding the animal, having a plan in place and good record keeping is a must for a successful rabbitry.  One point to consider before breeding is what will you do with the extra rabbits? Will you use them for food or sell the rabbits live? Having a clear plan helps to understand how to control your rabbit herd.  Also, keeping record of the ages of the rabbits as well as their reproductive cycle will lead to successful animal management.  

For example, a medium breed doe can be ready to conceive at 5 – 6 months of age.  A medium breed buck can be ready between 7 – 9 months of age for breeding.  Also, the bucks and does cannot be left together for extended time or herd quality may diminish.  Careful planning of breeding requires placing the animals together overnight and then removing the buck to avoid the doe from becoming pregnant in her two uterine horns.  If this occurs it may not produce successful litters and lead to a shorter reproductive life span for the doe.  

Keep a calendar and accurate records of the day you breed the doe. The doe should be tested for pregnancy between the 10th and 14th day after the initial breeding. The preferred method is to palpate the lower abdomen of the doe with your thumb and forefinger checking for nodules about the size of a marble. You should place a nest box in her cage on the 29th day after breeding. Thirty-one days after breeding, she should kindle her litter.

The doe will commonly be ready to breed again at 4 weeks after kindling.  The kits should be removed at 5 – 7 weeks.  As you can see, watching and keeping accurate records of breeding your rabbits is crucial to successful animal husbandry.  If poor records are kept, the results will be over population or poor reproduction among the does.  It is important to understand the breeding habits of a particular rabbit breed.  However, good knowledge and accurate attention to detail can produce successful rabbit breeding.

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You will also need to make a business plan available to any health inspectors that may be needed. This will include the nature of your business with raising and breeding rabbits, to how many you intend on having on the farm at any given time. You will also need to address the question of how the effluent will be disposed of. The structures used will need to be laid out, along with what sewerage systems will be in place, and how the carcasses and effluent will be dealt with.

Rabbits are kept in close quarters, at high densities, and are generally housed off the floor in wire cages. You will need to organise the housing in such a way that cleaning the cages, and the area under them is as efficient as is possible. Also access to each cage and each rabbit, for care and maintenance needs to be easy and efficient.

Effluent removal is usually done in one of two ways

• Dry Cleaning. Rabbit pellets, waste and nesting matter is removed from the floor by sweeping the area under the cages. Sprays are utilised for controlling odour, bacteria and pests. Dry cleaning works particularly well when there are 15 or more breeding does, and up to a total of 1800 rabbits kept at any time.

• Wet Cleaning. This method works better in a smaller rabbit population (less that 15 breeding does, and up to 900 rabbits kept at any given time). The effluent, waste, pellets, nesting material and more are washed away by water.

Whichever cleaning method used, consideration needs to be given to where the effluent will go to from the housing. Consideration needs to be given to any carcasses that need to be disposed of, and how the effluent, carcasses and other waste will influence the environment and ground water in the area. Just as important is the control of flies and other pests, bacteria, fungal growths and how these control measures will affect the environment and wildlife.

Consider also in your planning how the rabbits are to be fed and watered. Feeding animals on any farm, on a commercial scale, takes up 90 % of the resources available to caring for the animals, especially labor. Installing automatic water and feeding systems can cut down on these menial tasks, saving a lot of time, money and wastage.

Another necessity in planning your rabbit farming operation, is the installing of a quarantine area. This area can be a life saver to prevent the spread of disease in a confined space, either from newly introduced rabbits in your programme, or rabbits that have become ill.

With proper goal setting, planning and business proposals in place, you will be ready to start your rabbit farm and face any obstacles in your way head on, with a successful outcome.

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